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mule knot

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You must maintain control of the brake strand while tying this knot. Tie it so that the load strand and the brake strand are side by side. There are different ways of positioning your hands during the tying - this works for me.

 
 
Important Disclaimer: Climbing is inherently dangerous and should be performed only with the proper instruction and supervision of an experienced climber.
The author and publisher of this web page assume no responsibility for any injuries incurred by the reader.