Rock Safety Manual

Necessary Skills and Equipment

Tying in and Attaching the Belay Device The preferred method of attaching the belay device to the harness is by clipping it to the belay loop. In addition, the belay carabiner should be clipped through the loop of climbing rope formed by the belayer's tie-in.

Knots

Figure 8 Retrace and Figure 8 Bend Tie a climbing rope to your harness using a figure 8 retrace. Use the figure 8 bend to join two ropes for rappelling. The knot must be dressed and nested so there are no crosses in it, and cinched tight.
The figure 8 retrace or bend must have a 6" tail or a safety knot.
Click here: how to tie a figure 8 retrace

Figure 8 on a Bight Used for tying in to a belay anchor or tying in to a midpoint of a rope. The knot must be dressed and nested (so there are no crosses in it) and cinched tight.
Click here: how to tie a figure 8 on a bight

Clove Hitch This knot is useful in belay setups, i.e., attaching a climbing rope to a carabiner. It is easily adjustable.
Important: clove hitches must be cinched as tight as possible or they will not hold, so grab both rope strands and pull as tight as you can. Always use a locking carabiner; large pear-shaped carabiners are best.
Click here: how to tie a clove hitch

Preparing to Climb

After tying in and setting up the belay device, the climbers inspect each other for:
1) harness fit
2) buckles doubled back
3) tie-in knot
4) belay device and locking carabiner
5) helmets on.
Also check that you have all the needed gear such as runners, water bottle, extra carabiners, etc.

Either climber may initiate the sequence of climbing signals. Always use your partner's name to avoid confusion with a nearby party:

Climber (optional): "On Belay (partner's name)?"
Belayer: "Belay On (partner's name)"
Climber: "Climbing (partner's name)"
Belayer: "Climb (partner's name) " or "Climb On (partner's name)"

Belaying a Top-roped Climber From Below - Slip/Slap/Slide

Use a proper brake handgrip 100% of the time--fingers curled around the rope and thumb across the rope and over the index finger.
Keep your brake hand in the lock-off position unless feeding out or taking in rope
Always be tight against your anchor or in proper position if not anchored.
The brake hand should be on the same side as the anchor.

Each time we take in rope, the feeling hand is brought to the braking side of the rope to grasp it beyond the brake hand.
Then the brake hand is slid toward the belay device.
This is sometimes known as the "slip-slap-slide" method.

The process is repeated. There are other approved methods of taking in rope.
As you get more experience you should practice and become proficient at belaying with either hand.

The brake hand should be below the belay device
If the climber greatly outweighs the belayer, the belayer should be anchored
Don't step on or become tangled in the rope
When lowering a climber, place both hands on the brake side of the belay device.

Kinks have a tendency to form in the rope which can pry your fingers open and cause you to lose control of the rope.
Having both hands on the rope will prevent this.

Rappelling

Sometimes it's the easiest way to the bottom of the climb!

1. Clip in to the rappel anchor with your anchor runner (long enough to allow you to test the rappel system).
2. Put the rappel rope through your rappel device and inspect and weight the entire system. Note that the brake hand is below the rappel device.
3. Make sure someone at the bottom is holding the rope loosely (a fireman's belay)
4. Remove your anchor slings, keeping a braking hand in braking position at all times.
5. Shout "on rappel" and rappel. Keep your feet wide and be in the 'L' position.
6. Once you reach the ground, remove the rope from your rappel device. Then look up and yell "off rappel!" That tells the next person it's OK to rappel.

Equipment

Bring enough food and water for your day in the mountains!

Helmet: We will show how to adjust the helmet and explain why a well fitting helmet is important.
Clothing: Different clothing will be briefly talked about including weather protection
Climbing Gear: Gear for different climbing situations:
Gear sling
Carabiners
Belay/Rappel devices
Harness (the "rise," hang to test)
Climbing shoes (types and fit)
Slings (runners), Metoleus Personal Anchor System, cordalettes/web-o-lettes
Backpacks
Approach/descent shoes
Rope tarps
Headlamp
Rope
First Aid Kit
Water Bottle/Hydration pack

More Climbing Signals

The belayer always says the word "belay" first, as in "belay on" and "belay off."
Say your partner's name before the signal. It gets their attention and tends to be spoken louder when said first.

Required Signals
Climber: (optional) On Belay?
Belayer: Belay On
Climber: Climbing
Belayer: Climb or Climb On
Climber: Slack
Up Rope
Take or Tension
Falling
Off Belay
Belayer: Belay Off

Anyone: R-O-C-K! (when a loose rock falls)
ROPE! (when you toss a rope from above)
Off Rappel! (when you have reached the ground and removed the rope from your rappel device)

Outdoor Climbing Considerations

Weather
Alpine climbing is riskier
Mountain weather patterns
Use an altimeter to predict weather
Sometimes, especially on east faces, you cannot see the weather coming

Lightning
Lightning can extend up to 15 miles from the clouds
Stay off mountaintops and ridges
Stay away from water and snow
Shed all metal
You are safer in trees, but do not stand under the tall ones
Your last resort
Why cars are safe

Hypothermia
What hypothermia is
How it is caused: respiration, evaporation, conduction and convection
Symptoms and stages
Victim may not realize he is in danger
Treatment
Note: Bare skin may be warmer than wet clothing

Heat Exposure
Symptoms
Treatment
Dehydration
Exhaustion
Stroke

Safety
Rock climbing is risky, but, to some extent, you can choose your level of risk
Have the right gear, both for the climb, and to back off, if necessary
Additional gear for alpine climbs: too little can be dangerous; too much can be a hindrance
Helmets are a must
Be aware of other parties above and below
Darkness is a factor; carry a watch and a headlamp
Descents can be dangerous; know your descent route
Fatigue can impair judgment

Efficiency
Efficiency is a safety factor; lost minutes add up
Efficiency hints: teamwork

Comfort
Clothing for comfort and safety: synthetics that shed water and are warm when wet; not cotton
Protective clothing: long pants and sleeves, kneepads, tape for hands
Sunscreen and lip balm
Optional: carry a water filter or purification tablets

Minimum Impact
Leave No Trace
Avoid trampling vegetation

Advanced skills - Multipitch Climbing

Equipment needed for the second: Harness, helmet, belay/rappel device, two large and two small locking carabiners, slings and/or PAS, prusik slings, rock shoes, descent shoes (optional), food, water, rain gear.
Note: The following procedure assumes there are only two climbers. If there are three or more climbers, the second belays both the leader and can also belay the third climber. The third and any successive climbers can belay the climber below them.

First Pitch: Leader Climbs
1. Set a bottom anchor, if used.
2. Flake the rope.
3. Both climbers tie in, second rigs belay device, climbers inspect each other.
4. Second attaches to anchor, if used.
5. Climbing signals. Note: If the belayer is not anchored, he should be close to the wall but not directly below the leader.
6. Leader climbs, second belays.
7. Leader arrives at belay station, sets anchor, signals "off belay (partner's name)".
8. Second signals "belay off (partner's name)" waits 5 seconds and takes the leader off belay. Note: There are additional rules and procedures if the leader is out of sight.

First Pitch: Second Climbs
1. Second cleans the bottom anchor.
2. Leader pulls up rope, hears "that's me (partner's name)" and puts second on belay.
3. Leader signals to second "belay on (partner's name)".
4. Second signals "climbing (partner's name)".
5. Leader signals "climb on (partner's name)".
6. Leader belays second up.
7. On the way up the second cleans pitch, racking the pro in an orderly fashion.
8. At the belay, the second attaches to anchor with PAS or sling, then the rope.
9. Re-rack, re-stack rope (rope management).

Second Pitch
1. Climbing signals are given and leader climbs, second belays. Note - Until the leader has placed her first piece of pro, a fall can be very serious resulting in a "factor 2" fall (to be explained in class) or potentially landing on and injuring the second.
2. Signals are given and second climbs, leader belays.

Note: After leaving the ground, the second does not remove the anchor until he is on belay. If there are more then two climbers, it is the last climber to leave the belay that cleans the anchor.

Top can be a walk-off, downclimb or rappel.
If you can walk-off or down climb, re-rack, butterfly coil the rope, and descend.
If you rappel, rig and execute a rappel as described above.

Note: Downclimbing on class 3 or 4 rock can be dangerous. Ask for a spot or belay if you think you need it.